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Hermès AW2024: Reframed Parisian Luxury

HERMES MRTW AW24 RUNWAY photo Filippo Fior

In the heart of Paris—where fashion meets art—Hermès unveiled its new men’s collection for autumn/winter 2024 in a striking show at the Palais d’Iéna. After the runway spectacle, the collection made its way to the brand’s Parisian showroom in the 8th arrondissement, where the top floor was transformed into a fashion lover’s playground. Forty-three ensembles were meticulously displayed among towering screens looping the catwalk highlights, while must-have accessories such as statement bags, chunky jewellery, cashmere beanies, angler’s hats, and leather boots were showcased on nearby tables.

This up-close encounter proved irresistible for editors and guests alike. Not only could they admire the pieces, they were invited to try them on, compile wishlists for future shoots, and indulge in the simple luxury of draping themselves in Hermès finery. Naturally, I seized the chance—snapping share-worthy photos and curating my own visual diary.

Classics with a Modern Twist

For over 35 years, Véronique Nichanian has helmed Hermès’ men’s collections, and this season she presents what can best be described as “Dandy chic.” She reinvents traditional motifs—argyle diamonds appear as superpixel prints in luxurious knits—and interweaves technical sportswear fabrics with sumptuous classics, delivering a versatile, contemporary wardrobe.

Layering is everywhere. An easygoing hoodie might peek out from beneath a Chevron-patterned jacket, while plush fleece outerwear can sport an oversized knitted collar. Precise tailoring with fitted contours is paired with oversized lammy coats, shirts, and slim-cut trousers for an effortlessly balanced silhouette. Some coats go a step further with reversible designs. Typical finishing touches include leather ankle boots, plus your choice of a cashmere beanie or a fisherman’s hat—essentials for the style-conscious man on the go.

This season also introduces a reversible snood that marries silk and leather, underscoring the Hermès flair for luxurious practicality. Elsewhere, a black biker-style leather trench exudes edgy sophistication, and even the classic black suit takes on a subtle sparkle for evening wear. While grey, black, brown, and olive green anchor the palette, surprises abound: citrine, chartreuse, and aubergine inject bright flashes of colour into the muted spectrum. Layering remains pivotal, with a standout combination being a mid-length check coat, topped off by a transparent, featherweight rubber raincoat in a deep brown hue—a stylish solution to winter’s chill.

My Hermès Highlights

Choosing favourites is no easy task, but a few pieces command attention. The Haut à Courroies bag is always a showstopper, while an oversized grey mid-length leather jacket feels timeless and endlessly wearable. Equally tempting is the transparent coat layered over another Hermès classic—perfect for staying polished in unpredictable weather. Last but certainly not least, the foldable dark brown leather bag with bold zip pockets is both functional and chic, ensuring essentials remain elegantly within reach.

Hermès once again proves why its craftsmanship is revered. With inventive digital prints on knitwear, technical materials rendered in sleek silhouettes, and translucent, weatherproof coats, the house is rewriting the rules of modern luxury—without ever losing sight of its heritage of understated elegance.

 

Photography Filippo Fior (runway) and Armando Grillo (details)

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