Fashion
African luxury fashion is making a bold and dynamic entrance onto the global stage, captivating audiences around the world with its creative force and cultural richness. With a growing number of visionary designers gaining international recognition, African couture is redefining the boundaries of luxury and style.
Imane Ayissi has reached the pinnacle of the fashion world through his eponymous label. The former Cameroonian ballet dancer was invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture—French fashion’s governing body—to present his work during Haute Couture Week in January and June this year. Against the backdrop of illustrious names like Schiaparelli and Dior, Ayissi unveiled a collection crafted from taffeta silk and raffia.
His success reflects a broader movement. South African designer Thebe Magugu garnered the LVMH Fashion Prize in 2019 and has since been regarded as a star on the rise. Compatriot Lukhanyo Mdingi received the Amiri Prize last year for his inventive knitwear and retro-inflected designs. Another South African, Sindiso Khumalo, created a collection for the Swedish brand & Other Stories.
African fashion’s momentum is accelerating on its home continent as well. The number of fashion weeks in cities such as Johannesburg, Accra, and Lagos has surged to 32. According to a UNESCO report, The African Fashion Sector, interest in locally designed and produced fashion is growing swiftly—especially among younger generations and an expanding middle class. Demand for African haute couture is predicted to increase by 42 percent over the next decade.
A Growing Influence
This surge in demand partly stems from the increased visibility of African designers worldwide. “In 2020, during the pandemic, everything went online,” observes Frederica Brooksworth, Director of the Council for International African Fashion Education (CIAFE). “The global success of Afrobeats—by artists such as Burna Boy and Tyla—and prominent events like Lagos Fashion Week have also fuelled the rising popularity of African style.” With its wealth of cultural expression and creative talent, Africa is well poised to become a dominant force in the global fashion sector.
Cute-Saint
Founded in Lagos, Nigeria, in 2019 by Muftau Femi Ajose. Known for bold tie-dye dresses, swimsuits, and oversized trousers, the label has appeared at Ghana Menswear Week and Africa Fashion Week London.
Imane Ayissi
Cameroonian couturier whose namesake brand launched in 2004. Fuses traditional African textiles, such as Ghanaian kente, with the precision of French haute coutur
Rich Mnisi
South African designer acclaimed for extravagant prints and dramatic silhouettes.
Lukhanyo Mdingi
Debuted in 2015 at South Africa Menswear Week. Has since shown in New York and Paris, blending African aesthetics with androgynous cuts.
Buzigahill
Ugandan designer Bobby Kolade, a Weissensee Art Academy Berlin alumnus, engages in critical fashion discourse through his podcast Vintage or Violence. Showcased alongside Mdingi at the State of Fashion Biennale in Arnhem.
MaXhosa
Laduma Ngxokolo pays homage to Xhosa culture through traditional fabrics, colours, and beadwork. Recently presented in Paris at the official residence of the South African Ambassador, accompanied by a monologue celebrating South African heritage.
KikoRomeo
A Kenyan brand established in 1996 by Ann McCreath, now helmed by her daughter Iona. Preserves local craftsmanship through the use of natural fibres like linen and cotton, spun and woven by regional artisans.
Credits photography: Reed Davis, Stencer Stainelange, Ian Nnyanzi, Djibi Kebe, Kola Oshalusi, Aart Verrips, Launchmetrics.
This feature is also published in Dutch in FD Persoonlijk, 27/07/2024
